Bolinhos de Bacalhau

Ingredients

• 14⅛ ozsalt codsalted and dried; soak 24–48 h beforehand, changing the water several times
• 1⅓ lbpotatoesfloury; boiled and mashed
• 2eggsto bind the mixture; some use only yolks
• 1onionfinely chopped, raw or sautéed; shallots as alternative
• 2 clovesgarlicfinely chopped
• 3 tbspparsleyflat-leaf, finely chopped
• 1 tbspolive oilfor sautéing onion and garlic or for the mixture
• nutmegfreshly grated
• saltsparingly, the fish often brings enough salt
• black pepperfreshly ground
• 4¼ cupsvegetable oilfor deep-frying; olive oil also possible
• 1lemoncut into wedges for serving; lime as alternative (optional)
• 2 tbspcilantrofinely chopped, in addition to parsley (optional)
• 1 pinchcayenne pepperfor a little heat (optional)

Method

1. Soak the salt codSoak the salt cod in cold water for 24 to 48 hours, changing the water several times so it doesn't stay too salty.
2. Cook and rice the potatoesBoil or steam the potatoes in salted water until tender, skins on if you like. Peel them, then push them through a ricer or food mill or mash them by hand, but don't use a blender, or the mixture will turn gluey.
3. Poach and flake the codSimmer or steam the soaked cod for about 8 to 15 minutes, then let it cool. Carefully remove the skin and bones and flake the fish very finely, or give it a quick pulse in a food processor.
4. Prepare onion and garlicFinely chop the onion and garlic. For a milder flavour, sauté both in the olive oil until golden, though you can also use them raw, in which case add the olive oil to the mixture in the next step.
5. Mix and season the mixtureKnead the mashed potatoes, cod, onion, garlic, parsley and eggs into a firm mixture. Season with freshly ground black pepper and freshly grated nutmeg, and taste before adding any salt, since the fish often brings plenty of its own.
6. Heat oil and shape the mixtureHeat the vegetable oil in a pot to around 170 to 375 °F. Meanwhile, shape the mixture into oval quenelles using two spoons, or roll it into small balls with damp hands.
7. Fry the bolinhosFry the bolinhos in batches in the hot oil for 3 to 5 minutes until golden brown, without crowding the pot so the oil stays hot.
8. Drain and serveLift them out with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. Serve warm or lukewarm, with lemon wedges.

Tips and variations

If you like, add some finely chopped cilantro and a pinch of cayenne pepper to the mixture. Shallots work in place of the onion, and you can fry in olive oil instead of vegetable oil. Some cooks steam the potatoes and fish together over bay leaves or cook both in the same pot, while others briefly fry the flaked cod with the onion and garlic. Instead of quenelles, you can shape flat oval patties, and shaped balls can be frozen and fried straight from the freezer. There's even a version with no potatoes at all: a batter of flour, milk, egg yolk and baking soda with spring onions and green chilli, dropped into the oil by the spoonful. To serve, swap the lemon or lime for aioli, a hot sauce, or tomato sauce spiked with Tabasco.